"Forever is forever, a diamond lasts forever." I believe the famous Kimberley diamond ad has left a deep impression on many people's minds. Watch designers and jewelers have always been closely linked to the concept of "forever," as both watches and jewelry often incorporate diamonds to symbolize eternal love and lasting beauty. Many timepieces use diamonds to decorate their dials, not only adding brilliance and movement but also enhancing the collectible value of the watch.
Have you ever taken a closer look at a diamond-encrusted watch? How much do you really know about diamond cutting? As an essential part of watchmaking, today I’ll give you an overview of the diamond cutting process and how different cuts influence the aesthetics and value of luxury timepieces.
Different watches come in various styles, each evoking a unique feeling. Diamonds, as one of the decorative elements, can be cut in different ways, each offering a distinct visual effect. The round cut is the most traditional and popular, while the princess cut is commonly used in modern fashion watches. For couples' watches, heart-shaped diamonds add a romantic touch. If you're looking for a more elegant feel, the emerald cut (a long, stepped cut) is a great choice. Younger generations may prefer the unique eye-shaped or marquise cuts that reflect their personality, while those who like simplicity might opt for the square or cushion cuts.
**Pincushion Cut**
The pincushion cut features a rounded rectangular shape with slightly curved corners, giving it a soft and elegant appearance. This cut has gained popularity in recent years, especially in jewelry, due to its fashionable and refined look.
**Round Cut**
The round cut is the most widely used in diamond watches because it maximizes light reflection. Scientific studies show that a round-cut diamond has 57 facets, which provide the highest level of brilliance. This cut follows the principle of optimal light reflection, making it the most popular choice for luxury timepieces.
**Heart-Shaped Cut**
Originating from ancient India, the heart-shaped cut is rarely used in watches but is more common in wedding rings. Its design symbolizes love and romance, and when properly proportioned, it allows for a balanced display of sparkle.
**Long Step Cut**
Also known as the emerald cut, this style is named after the Italian word *bacchetta*, meaning "stick." It has around 20 facets and features a rectangular shape with step-like edges, creating a sophisticated and elegant look.
**Horse-Eye Cut**
Also called the oval or boat-shaped cut, this style is known for its strong fire and brilliance. It enhances the perceived carat weight, making the diamond appear larger. A typical horse-eye cut has 56 facets and a length-to-width ratio of 2:1.
**Square Cut**
Also known as the emerald cut, this style is characterized by its clean lines and stepped facets. It is ideal for men’s watches, as it exudes a more masculine and refined aesthetic.
**Oval Cut**
Popularized in the 1960s, the oval cut offers a similar sparkle to the round cut but with a more elongated shape, making it a versatile option for both jewelry and watches.
In diamond watches, the bright cut is commonly used. Bright cuts are divided into single and double cuts. Single-cut diamonds typically have 17 facets and are used for small, decorative stones. Double-cut diamonds, with 57 or 58 facets, offer better light reflection and are more expensive due to the complexity of the cutting process.
Diamond-setting techniques vary depending on where the diamonds are placed—on the case, bezel, strap, or dial. For example, the 2012 Baselworld exhibition featured the Hublot Big Bang diamond watch, which used square-cut diamonds on the case. The dial usually features round-cut diamonds for symmetry, while the strap may include more varied cuts. Some watches even feature pear-shaped diamonds at the 6 o’clock position.
Diamonds not only enhance the visual appeal of a watch but also elevate its overall luxury feel, often significantly increasing its price. Whether it's a classic round cut or a unique heart-shaped diamond, each cut tells a story and adds a special touch to the timepiece.
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