Breaking ice and setting the "ice cone" is not difficult to climb ice!

Climbing ice has long been known as the “ballet on icefall” with its unique new cool equipment, fairytale-like activity environment, and exciting physical and mental feelings. When the new ice season comes, don't miss the cool one!

In the first few days, I wrote ice axes and crampons, and I will explain the ice cones necessary for ice climbing today.

||Ice Cone Classification

The cones are divided by material: steel, titanium alloys and stainless steel.

Titanium alloy cones have the advantage of light weight;

The advantage of the stainless steel cone is that it will not rust. Its hardness is higher than that of titanium alloy cones, which is lower than steel cones.

The advantages of steel ice cones are high hardness and wear resistance, and in order to prevent rust, increase the smoothness of the cones and reduce the friction between the ice cones and the ice when rotating, the steel ice cones are processed by electroplating.

The length of the ice cone is generally 10cm, 13cm, 16cm, 19cm, and 22cm. Five different sizes of ice cones are used for ice layers of different thicknesses. The ice picker is best equipped with a rocker, which can be quickly screwed in or out with a rocker when setting up to save effort and time.


|| How to use ice cones

The setting of the ice cone directly determines the safety of ice climbing, so be sure to pay attention to the points.

When the ice cone is set, different methods should be adopted according to the ice conditions

If the ice wall is thin or the ice is brittle, when setting the ice cone, the ice cone should be perpendicular to the ice surface, and the tip of the ice cone should be lifted upwards, and screwed into the ice surface at an angle of about 10-15 degrees. In this way, the cone of the ice cone forms an obtuse angle with the ice wall. When the cone of ice bears a downward pull, the pressure of the cone on the ice wall can be reduced, so that the ice body is not crushed and the ice cone is released.

If the ambient temperature is high, the ice is soft, and there is evidence of melting on the surface of the ice wall, the ice pick cannot be set as described above. Since the ice around the ice cone wall will melt, the ice cone will become looser and easier to pull. It is pulled out, so at this point the ice cone should be set horizontally, or the tip should be slightly bowed down and about 10 degrees into the ice.


According to the thickness of the ice wall, ice cones of different lengths are selected when setting the ice cone, and the cone rod must be fully screwed into the ice wall to reduce the leverage.

If the ice wall is thin and there are no shorter ice cones, the front part of the long cone of ice can be screwed horizontally into the ice wall. Then, in the area where the cone rod sticks to the ice surface, it is fixed with a rope sleeve or flat belt, and finally the iron lock is used. Attach the master rope to the rope cover or webbing, which solves the problem of short short ice cones.


In the multi-stage climbing route, the ice cone needs to be used repeatedly, so after each unloading, it is necessary to promptly clean the crushed ice inside the cone. Generally, tapping on the cone and the ice wall will break out the crushed ice. If the crushed ice is frozen, you can hold the ice cone with both hands, and after the crushed ice is slightly melted, shake it out or blow it out.


|| Ice Cone Recommended At present, the common domestic cone brands are: Petzl-Charlet, Grivel, Black Diamond, Simond, Cassin and Camp. Each brand has its own unique design, with prices ranging from 300 to 800 yuan.


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