The type and use of crampons Read full article >>

There are many types of crampons and there are different classification methods. From the fixing method, there are differences between the tie (tied type), full-card type, and front-attached card type; from the structure, there are hard type, semi-rigid type, and soft type; from climbing use, there is climbing/snow walking and high Difficult waterfall ice/mixed route climbing difference.

Let's talk about the tie and card type: Full-size crampons can only be paired with hiking boots with front and rear slots. These boots have a strong midsole so they can hold the crampons. And the crampons have a wider range of use and can be used with any type of boot. It is slightly more troublesome to wear and remove the cramped claws. Personally think that it is most convenient to tie the front card, but require boots to have a rear card slot.

Modern crampons are made of high-performance alloy steel. The frame of hard crampons is generally made of vertical steel sheets and cannot be bent in the horizontal direction. For example, Harpoon, which is widely used in China, is mostly used for technically demanding waterfall ice and mixing routes; semi-hard claws are generally horizontally oriented. The steel sheet, under stress, can be slightly deformed to fit the shape of the sole, such as Charlet Moser's S12. Most mountaineering/ice climbing crampons are of this type; soft cramps can be bent along with the sole For example, CharcMoser's Ecrin can be paired with softer boots and even some types of walking shoes. This kind of crampons is suitable for walking on glaciers and climbing on low technical requirements.

The flat tooth crampons are used for mountaineering and general ice climbing, and are suitable for snow and hard ice; while the front teeth crampons are especially good at dealing with extremely hard ice because of their strong penetration, and its role is technology. Hard ice and mixed routes are demanding. When picking crampons, it is important to note that the position of the second pair of front teeth, the more forward, the better the supporting effect at a large angle, the more suitable for a steep ice wall, but it takes more time to walk. Such as CM's S12 and Black Ice, the latter's second pair of front teeth is more prominent, ice climbing performance is a bit better.

The problem of stability of the crampons: Some people say that the catch is not as stable as the crampons, and it is easy to fall off. In fact, it is generally due to the lack of cooperation between the crampons and the boots. Most of today's card arresters also added a backup band for insurance purposes.

The maintenance of the crampons: The crampons use Ni-Mo-Cr alloy steel, which has better strength and toughness than ordinary carbon steel. After use, the ice blocks that are sticking should be cleaned out to prevent snow from corroding the metal and causing rust. The prolonged use of the crampons will become blunt and should be promptly hand-cranked. Do not use electric grinders because the heat generated by the electric grinders will anneal the metal. The steel wire in front of the crampons must fit well with the boot. If it is not suitable, you can use a rubber hammer to knock it out.

Anti-adhesion skis: When climbing wet slopes, snow blocks are particularly likely to stick between the crampons and the soles of the shoes, and a long wet snowball will not form in a long time. This is very dangerous. Once a snowball has formed, it should be immediately cleaned with a hail handle to prevent slipping. The use of anti-stick skis can partially solve this problem. Some brands have finished products for sale, but others also make it themselves: to find a piece of plastic, which is better than the size of the crampons, and it can be fixed on crampons. Anti-stick skis can solve the problem of sticky snow to a large extent, but they cannot be taken lightly.

List other common domestic (Beijing) crampons for reference.

CharletMoser S12 flat-tooth semi-rigid cassette mountaineering and general ice climbing recommended climber preferred

CharletMoser BlackIce flat-tooth semi-rigid cassette technology mountaineering and technical ice climbing recommended

CharletMoser M10 Rigid Gear Hard Difficult Hard Ice and Mixed Climb

CharletMoser G8 Rigid Gear Hard Difficult Hard Ice

CharletMoser Ecrin flat-tooth semi-rigid/soft (adjustable) tying glacier travel and simple climbing with Treking shoes

Simond Bulldog Rigid Gear Hard Difficult Hard Ice & Mixed Climb

Simond 410 flat-tooth semi-rigid tying glacier travel and simple climbing, simple ice climbing

Simond 412 flat-tooth semi-rigid card mountaineering and general ice climbing recommended

Trango Harpoon Rigid Gear Hard Difficult Hard Ice and Mixed Climb

Camp Ice Runner Rigid Gear Hard Ice (Similar to Harpoon, with interchangeable parts)

Camp Green Ice flat-tooth semi-rigid cassette climbing and general ice climbing performance slightly worse than S12, if the price has advantages can also be recommended.

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